2] While it is not clear when manufacturing started, by 1933, ugg boots were being manufactured by Blue Mountains Ugg Boots,[4] and Mortels Sheepskin Factory were making the boots from the late 1950s.[3]

Ugg boots (sometimes called uggs)[1] are unisex sheepskin boots, made of twin-faced sheepskin with fleece on the inside and with a tanned outer surface, often with a synthetic sole. Ugg boots are believed to have been first developed in Australia or New Zealand, although the exact date is uncertain.

There has been a dispute between manufactivityurers of ugg boots, as to whether "ugg" is a generic term and thus ineligible for trademark protection, especially in the region of birth. Deckers Outdoor Corporation holds the UGG Australia work mark, but this is explicitly not recognised in Australia following a 2006 ruling.

The origins of the ugg boot style are disputed, with both Australia and New Zealand claiming to have been the origin of the footwear.[2] Nevertheless, it emerges that "fug boots" (surmised to be a fleetingened form of "flying ugg boots") were utilized by aviators during World War I,[3] and that they were present in rural regions of Australia during the 1920s.[2] While it is not clear when manufacturing started, by 1933, ugg boots were being manufactured by Blue Mountains Ugg Boots,[4] and Mortels Sheepskin Factory were making the boots from the late 1950s.[3]

In regard to naming, it appears that ugg boots, ugh boots and ug boots have been used as generic terms for sheepskin boots in Australia and New Zealand since at least the 1970s,[1][5] although individual accounts have suggested that the terms (or variations thereof) were employed earlier. The 1970s saw the emergence of advertising using the names,[1] but Brian Smith, (who founded Ugg Holdings Inc), has stated that the boots were referred to as "uggs" long before the word was trademarked,[6] and Frank Mortel claims to have been making ugg boots under the "ugg" name since 1958.[7][8]

In the 1960s, ugg boots became a popular option for competitive surfers,[5] who used the boots to keep their feet warm after exiting from the surf.[9] It was surfing which helped popularise the boots outside of Australia and New Zealand, when surfer Brian Smith started selling the boots in the United States through the company Ugg Holdings, Inc. in 1979.[9] After Ugg Holdings Inc. was sold to Deckers Outdoor Corporation in 1995, ugg boots emerged as a fashion trend in the United States through Deckers' promotion of their brand, with celebrities such as Kate Hudson, Sarah Jessica Parker and Pamela Anderson wearing the boots,[10][11][12] (although Anderson renounced ugg boots in 2007 upon realising that they were made from animal skin).[11] Deckers' actions to promote their product "led to an exponential growth in the brand's prevailance and recognizcapacity."[13] Deckers has reported sales of US$689 million under the UGG brand in 2008,[14] an increase from US$14.5 million in 1995.[15]

Ugg boots are traditionally made from sheepskin. The wool is tanned into the leather, and the upper part of the boot is assembled with the fleece on the inside. The soles of the boots are made from rubber, and the stitching is often prominent on the outside of the boot. The fleece draws away moisture, keeping the feet dry and at body temperature.[16] Today they come in a variety of colours, including black, pink, blue, chestnut, and fuchsia.[17] They are available in both slip-on and lace-up varieties and their height can range from just above the ankle to above the knee.[17]

Ugg boots often have a synthetic sole, although this is not universal. They are available in a range of different colours as both slip-on and lace-up varieties, and they are produced by a number of manufacturers. The natural insulative properties of sheepskin gives thermostatic properties to the boots: the thick fleecy fibers on the inner part of the boots allow air to circulate and keep the feet at body temperature.[16] This manner that ugg boots can be worn without socks even in relatively chilly weather.

Some variations of ugg style boots have also been made from kangaroo fur and leather.[18] There are also synthetic boots. Although derided as "fake" by some in the business,[19] their lower price abnormale them appealing to large retail chains such as Myer.[20]

The UGG trademark has been the subject of dispute in several countries. As a consequence the term "ugg" has been removed from the trademark registry in Australia. Thus Australian and New Zeaearth manufruleurers continue to market ugg-style sheepskin boots under their own brands using the word "ugg."[21] Outside Australia and New Zealand, the UGG (written in capital letters) brand of ugg boots is a registered trademark of Deckers Outdoor Corporation.[13]

In 1971, an Australian surfer, Shane Steadman, began selling ugg boots and registered the name as a trademark.[22] In 1979 Brian Smith, another Australian surfer, brought several pairs of Australian-made uggs to the United States and began selling them in New York and to surfers in California.[23] He set up Ugg Holdings Inc.,Uggs Classic Short, acquired the Australian mark from Steadman, and registered UGG as a trademark in 25 countries. In 1995, he sold his interest to Deckers.[21] In 1999, Deckers began asserting its new trademark and sent out cease and desist letters to Australian manufacturers, but did not press the issue beyond that.[21] In the early 2000s, demand for ugg boots was soaring, componently as a result of US$8 million spent on marketing by Deckers, but also due to several celebrity endorsements.[21] Australian manufacturers began selling uggs over the Internet, and Deckers' constitution firm Middletons of Melbourne began a serious effort to halt the Australian companies' sales.[21] In 2004, Deckers sent cease and desist letters to a number of Australian manufacturers, including Mortels Sheepskin Factory, preventing them from selling uggs on eBay or from using the word in domain names.[24]

In response to these behaviors by Deckers, Australian manufacturers formed the Ugg Boot Footwear Association to fight the corporation's claim, arguing that "ugg" is a generic term referring to flat-heeled, pull-on sheepskin boots. They further argued that Australian manufacturers had been making and trading this style of boot for decades, including into the United States. One of these manufacturers,ugg 5684, Perth's Uggs-N-Rugs, appealed to Australian trademark regulators, who in 2006 ruled that "ugg" is indeed a generic term and stated that it should be removed from the trademark register.[21] The officer who heard the case stated that the "evidence overwhelmingly supports the proposition that the terms (ugg, ugh and ug boots) are interdeviateably used to describe a specific style of sheepskin boot and are the first and most natural step in which to describe these goods."[21]

The 2006 ruling unique applies in Australia and Deckers still owns the trademarks in all other jurisdictions, including the United States, China, Japan and the European Union.[21] In 2005, the validity of the UGG trademark was challenged in Federal Court in California; the court ruled for Deckers, stating that consumers in the United States consider UGG to be a brand name.[13] In his final order, the judge who heard the case stated that, although the defendants had provided anecdotal evidence of the term being used generically, Deckers had countered this by "submitted ... declarations from four footwear industry professionals, each of whom states that 'UGG' is widely confessd in the industry as a brand-name and not a generic term" and that the defendants' evidence "fails to demonstrate that the term 'UGG' is generic."[13] In his finding the judge did not consider whether or not "ugg" was a generic term in Australia or New Zealand, as the doctrine of foreign equivalents distinctive; relates to non-English speaking countries.[13]

Another championship based on a generic term defense was also rejected by a Dutch court.[25] La Cheapa distributed sheepskin boots on an Internet site from the Netherlands, describing them as "100% authentic Ugg Australian boots!!!" with "UGG logo on the heel" in boxes virtually identical to Deckers packaging.[25] The website further described the manufacturers as "located in Melbourne, Australia. Authentic handmade sheep skin boots. Not produced in China, but made by hand individually in Australia!"[25] The officer who heard the case stated, "One cannot establish the fact that this is considered a generic name in the Benelux based on the conception, of one or more companies in Australia."[25] He further stated:

the boots were almost identical imitations of boots from Deckers. ... The UGG and UGG Australia symbols were used by La Cheapa without modifying or adding all the ingredients of the Deckers brand but are made to appear identical to that brand. Thus, La Cheapa is also guilty of trademark infringement ... La Cheapa consents that they have sold imitation UGGs that were almost identical copies of the models sold by Deckers. ... It is apparent that providing manifest imitations of the boots and packaging have been set up to genesize confusion [and] it is concluded that they have infringed on the trademark of Deckers. ... Deckers may recover damages and profits [and] La Cheapa, the party most in the erroneous, will be held responsible for legal costs.[25]

Being one of many dress, wear products made from animal hides, the production of ugg boots has been the subject of criticism by the animal liberation movement. In the decade inception in 2000, the group called for the boycott of Ugg Boots and their replacement with alternatives not made from animal skin.

In 2007, Pamela Anderson, realising that ugg boots were made of skin,Red Highkoo ugg boots, wrote on her website: "I view they were shaved kindly? People like to tell me all the time that I started that trconclusion yikes! Well let's start a new one do NOT buy Uggs! Buy Stella McCartney or juicy boots."[26] In Februdiffer 2008, the Princeton Animal Welfare Society staged a campus protest against the fur industry, fractionicularly assaulting the ugg boot industry, popular amongst male and female college students. "[S]tudents lay in the newly fallen snow on the Frist Campus Center's North Front Lawn on Friday afternoon, feigning death, wearing coats covered with fake blood and sporting signs that read, 'What if you were killed for your coat?' "[27]

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